The Wood-Fired Grill Shines at Foxyco

I walked into Foxyco on a Friday night in October alone. Hanna was with a friend and running a bit behind for our 7:15 pm reservation. The restaurant sits in the Dallas Design District, a part of town that has a handful of popular attractions, but they’re spread out with warehouses, manufacturing facilities, and other odd buildings in between.

While I waited for Hanna’s arrival, I took the time to really observe the restaurant’s decor. It sports a variety of lighting fixtures, some looking like giant shower loofas. The longest wall looks like a Jackson Pollock painting, with black, blue, and gold paint. The booths give it a kind of diner-esque characteristic, while the rest of the decor whisks you off into the future, or maybe even another dimension.

Foxyco’s website will tell you it is “SERVING MODERN AMERICAN CUISINE.” But the most important part of Foxyco’s food is Chef Jon Stevens’ method of applying heat to his ingredients: the wood-fired grill. As a result, a lot of the dishes feature a beautiful char and a subtle smokey flavor.

Our dinner started with the Grilled Globe Artichoke and Burrata. Split into 4 pieces, each quarter of artichoke offers a delicious, lightly crisped heart. The wood-fired flavor comes through nicely, enhancing the pleasant bitterness of the artichoke. The mere concept of burrata is delicious on its own, but Foxyco kicks it up a notch with honeycomb and orange blossom harissa. These sweeter ingredients are countered perfectly with perfectly charred toast.

For the main course, Hanna went with the Herb Germelli, a dish with buttered croutons and sauced with a wagyu bolognese. We both found the addition of buttered croutons to a pasta dish to be both odd and unnecessary, but the pasta is beautifully made and the bolognese and herbs combine to create an enjoyably savory pasta dish.

Per our waiter’s suggestion, I ordered the Wagyu Bavette. Accompanied by charred sweet potato, garlic condiment, and red miso chimichurri, this cut of meat is exquisitely tender. Both the steak and the potato have a char that accentuates the natural flavors in the ingredients. You should find the garlic and chimichurri to provide some tasty excitement, while still allowing the meat and potatoes to show off their own distinct tastes.

Cooking on a wood-fired grill is an art, with the char marks serving as accents both for the eyes and the palate. Chef Jon Stevens and his entire team at Foxyco not only do the wood-fired grill justice, but they bring an excellent dining experience to the Dallas Design District.

You can book your reservation at Foxyco on OpenTable!

 

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