Review

Gung Ho: Getting the Party Started on Lower Greenville

When it comes to Gung Ho, I was both early and late to the party.

Hanna and I arrived a few minutes early to our reservation and were greeted by, well, a party. Energetic, high-volume music filled the restaurant as we shuffled through packs of Saturday nighters in the bar area. The vibe shifted, only slightly, from “party” towards “dining experience” as we were brought to the table.

I was late to the party because I’ve been hearing great things about Gung Ho for a couple of months. I finally decided it was time to find out for myself.

We started with Marinated Celtuce. Nothing tastes the same way to two different people, but to me, this dish is umami. Stalks are covered in sesame, furikake, and tasty herbs. It’s not often that I eat something that tastes both fresh and delightfully salty-snacky (an adjective I made up right this second) but this did exactly that.

And then there was dim sum: pork potstickers and pickled veggie eggrolls. I typically find dim sum to be the ultimate comfort food. Gung Ho supports my findings, with delicate potstickers and eggrolls that are familiarly crispy on the outside.

The White Cloud Tiger Cry, a citrusy cloud mushroom salad, was easily the most surprising dish to arrive at our table. The mushrooms could easily be mistaken for pasta, but the refreshing chili lime vin worked well for this unique dish.

Just as we were finally getting full, massive portions of Char Siu Pork and Lo Mein zoomed onto our table. Gung Ho’s lo mein absolutely gets the job done. But when I return, it might not make its way into my order for one key reason: The Char Siu Pork. Accompanied by exquisitely moist bao buns, the sizable medallions of vibrant red pork are sure to please your palate with an ideal combination of sweet and savory. For us, it wasn’t all too bad that we filled up on dim sum and noodles… the pork and buns made for some damn good leftovers.

In my experience, it’s not easy to order something at Gung Ho and be displeased. With that being said, the restaurant has much more to offer than just good food. When I return, which I will, I’ll return with a group of friends. We’ll each order one of their many cleverly named cocktails, more dim sum than we can possibly eat, at least one more cocktail, and we’ll have one hell of a time together.

Heck, let’s call it a party.

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